Showing posts with label self reliance. Show all posts
Showing posts with label self reliance. Show all posts
Tuesday, November 5, 2019
Tuesday, June 19, 2018
Survival Equipment for Beginners.
Survival Equipment for Beginners.
Advice based on experience.
1) When packing a
back pack for the trail, there must be a compromise between two principles;
Minimum weight, & Maximum self reliance.
2) Don’t waste
money on modern gadgets that are NOT sustainable. Most of these gadgets are
designed & sold for one purpose only, to make money for the designer &
the seller.
3) When purchasing
survival gear, think practically, what are the items you actually NEED.
4) Blades: Bowie
knives & stilettos are all very nice, but think about what you blades will
be actually mostly used for. Second hand blades in good order are just as good
as modern blades if not better. 19th century & early 20th
century butcher knives can often be found in second hand & junk shops. A
tomahawk with a round or oval tapered eye is more versatile than a hatchet or a
machete, but if you can’t find or afford a tomahawk, then pick up a light
hatchet to get you by. I carry three knives & a tomahawk.
5) A bird in the
hand is worth more than two in the bush. You will need a hunting, defence
tool(s). You are better off with a
flintlock pistol in your hand than a 9mm Glock still in the gun shop!
Personally I carry a flintlock longarm & pistol from choice, but get what
you can afford for now, even if it is only a single shot .22 rifle.
6) When planning
your equipment always think long term. We can’t possibly know what is going to
happen in the future.
7) Your survival
kit should be your back pack/knapsack; all of your gear should be your survival
kit, no fancy extras, just the basic needs that will keep you alive & in
reasonable comfort.
8) Learn primitive
living skills. The more skills you have, the better chance you have of
surviving.
9) Practice makes
perfect: Or at least as perfect as an individual can get. Use your gear, trek
& camp & get used to using your equipment out bush.
10)Fire: Being able
to make fire under all conditions is very important, so learn all you can about
kindling, plant & fungi tinders & making fire. Learn how to char
tinders directly in the fire & use the tinderbox to smother the glowing
embers. I suggest you purchase or make yourself a flint & steel kit; fire
steel/striker, tinderbox, & a piece of siliceous rock to strike the sparks
from the steel. A good back up skill is being able to make fire with a fire-bow
which you can make in the bush.
11) Don’t rely on
finding natural shelters, & don’t waste money on a modern tent. Get
yourself a piece of canvas or oil cloth, it is more versatile than a tent,
easier to erect, & you can take advantage of a fire for warmth &
cooking without having to go out in the rain or snow.
12) A good pure wool
blanket(s) is better than a sleeping bag. Sleeping bags in general will not
keep you warm if they get wet, & they are difficult to get out of in an
emergency. A good new blanket will always be better than a good old blanket,
but two second hand wool blankets work just fine. You can also cut a blanket to
make a “half-blanket” to use as a cape around your shoulders in winter, just as
any blanket can also be used as a Matchcoat or a Great coat without any cutting
or sewing.
13) Footwear: Hiking
boots are good, but they can be noisy in the woods, difficult to repair &
impossible to replace in the bush. If you make yourself a couple of pairs of
center seam Woodland Indian moccasins (one pair to wear & the other pair to
carry spare), then you will have the pattern to make new ones on your feet.
They are light, leave less sign than a modern boot, easy to make a makeshift
sole repair on the trail, easy to repair & replace. If you want to use your
hiking boots, do so, but I suggest you make at least one pair of moccasins
& carry them with you tied to your pack.
14) A good way to
carry extra warmth with you is to roll up some spare warm clothing in your
blanket roll. I carry a spare wool shirt & wool waistcoat which I put on
over my other clothing on cold nights.
15) Make sure you
carry a good modern medical/first aid kit. This is the only piece of modern
equipment that I carry with me. Learn how to use it, learn first aid. There are
first aid courses available in all cities.
16)Running a trap
line. This is the most efficient way to make meat, carry your hunting tool with
you & check the line every morning. Don’t carry any traps with you except
small game snares & perhaps a rope for a large game snare. Learn how to
make cordage from plant fibers’ & make your own traps.
17) Water is
probably the heaviest thing you will be carrying, but always carry a water
bottle/flask or canteen. I try to follow a water course when I can to make sure
I always have water, but you never know when you may not be able to find any
water.
18) Trail foods: Dry
foods are lighter than canned foods. Always carry some foods that do not
require cooking just in case it is not safe to make a fire.
19)Carry a light
trade kettle or billy kettle. These are easy to make from a tin can & a
piece of wire for a bail. These are good for cooking in, boiling water for
sterilizing or making a hot drink, & for collecting rain water to top up
your water bottle.
20)
Carry some form of water filter. I carry linen &
cotton water filter bags for straining dirty river water into my kettle for
boiling.
21) Fishing Tackle:
Carry a couple of lines & some spare hooks. You never know when you might
get a chance to do some fishing.
22)
A sewing kit is a must & it is pretty inexpensive to
put together. This will be needed for repairs to your clothing, footwear &
perhaps your shelter & back pack.
23)
Whetstone for sharpening your blades. You can often find
these second hand, but you can also find suitable stones in a creek or river
bed.
24)
Eating utensils.
You already have a knife, so all you need is a light wooden spoon.
Keith.
Saturday, June 16, 2018
Equipment: Comfort & Ease of Living.
Equipment: Comfort & Ease of Living.
Choosing the right equipment for wilderness living is important,
especially if you are carrying that equipment on your back. It is important to
choose equipment that is sustainable, which many modern survival gadgets are
not. So you really do need to give it some thought before you start collecting
gear.
The ease & comfort that you achieve in your wilderness survival
depends solely on the equipment you choose. Your survival per se depends mostly
on your wilderness living skills. If you have the right skills, you can survive
in the wilderness without any bought equipment, BUT, it will be a hard life
& a lot of work. Choose the wrong equipment, equipment that is not
necessary & not sustainable, & you will finish up living a Stone Age
lifestyle!
Here are some questions you need to ask yourself before purchasing or
choosing items of equipment:
Is it sustainable? If it breaks can I repair it easily? Do I really
need this or am I choosing it because it looks cool? What purpose will this
serve? Can I use it for more than just one task? Is this suitable for the
environment I am expecting to live in; example, jungle or forest/machete or
tomahawk? (a tomahawk is more versatile than a machete). How versatile is this
shelter option? If I choose a sleeping bag over wool blankets will the bag keep
me warm when wet? In an emergency how easily can I escape from a sleeping bag?
Do I need a firearm primarily for defence or hunting? How long will the
ammunition last if I use a modern firearm for defence & hunting? Am I
likely to get into a firefight? Will I be travelling alone? If I am travelling
with a partner, how can I divide some of the equipment to our best advantage?
Monday, March 12, 2018
Wednesday, January 24, 2018
Sunday, January 14, 2018
Bugging Out Equipment List. WHAT & WHY.
I decided to post this because when I read lists of
other people’s modern equipment for bugging out I often see items that I can’t
make sense of. Items that are NOT sustainable & seem of very little use.
Some say “well I use this until it breaks & then I throw it away”. The
problem with that is that this equipment has taken up room, added weight to the
pack, can leave sign to track you by if you don’t dispose of it properly, &
meanwhile you could have used this space & weight to either carry a better
piece of equipment, or you could have left it out & saved room &
weight. If you can afford to throw it away, then you don’t need it in the first
place.
Anyway, here is my list. Please feel free to
comment, different people sometimes see things in a different way & I like
to hear other people’s point of view.
My Equipment List. WHAT & WHY.
.62 cal/20 gauge flintlock fusil. 42 inch barrel.
Why? Large
calibre smoothbore has a lot of knock down power with a round ball, very
versatile using bird shot, buckshot, or round ball or a combination of any two
of these, able to use other projectiles found in nature, only requires a
siliceous rock for ignition which can be found in nature, the lock is easy to
repair, if the lock breaks & there are no spare parts I can use it as a
matchlock or tinderlock & keep using it, I can use the lock to make fire
without the use of gunpowder, I can make my own black powder, I can retrieve
spent lead from shot game & reuse it, I can mould my own round ball &
shot.
.70 caliber smoothbore flintlock pistol.
Why? Same as above fusil, light to carry, easy to
use, good for a back-up & self defence.
Gun tools and spare lock parts.
Why? To keep my firearms working long term.
Shot pouch and contents.
Why? For maintaining & using my firearms.
Leather drawstring pouch of .60 caliber ball (in
knapsack).
Why? Back-up supply.
Powder horn.
Why? For carrying gunpowder for immediate use with
firearms.
Ball mould, swan shot mould & Lead ladle.
Why? So I can reuse spent lead by remoulding.
5 Gunpowder wallets.
Why? For carrying extra gunpowder, the leather
wallet is lighter than a powder horn, once empty they are good for storing
spare tinder for fire lighting.
Butcher/Hunting knife.
Why? A good basic working knife made for skinning
& butchering game, good self defence knife, long blade but light to carry
& use.
Legging knife.
Why? Good back-up knife for hunting & self
defence, easy to access, light to use & carry.
Clasp knife.
Why? Good back-up knife, mainly used for camp
chores, making kettle hooks, making trap parts, easy to carry.
Tomahawk.
Why? Lighter than a modern hatchet, the helve fits
in a round or oval eye & is easy to make in a wilderness situation, the
helve can easily be removed to use the head on its own for making a new helve
or scraping hides for making leather or rawhide, good for trap making, good for
hammering, can be thrown for hunting, defence, offence & entertainment.
Fire bag.
Why? Greased leather waterproof bag for keeping my tinderbox & contents
dry.
Tinderbox.
Why? For preparing plant & fungi tinders for
flint & steel fire lighting, contains prepared tinder for fire lighting, is
used for fire lighting by striking sparks into the tinderbox.
Flint & Steel. (NOTE: Not a ferocerium rod).
Why? For making fire. This method is sustainable
long term.
Belt pouch.
Why? This pouch is carried on the waist belt at all
times & contains my fire bag, my fishing tackle container, my sundial
compass & my fire steel/striker which is tied to the pouch buckle.
Fishing tackle in brass container.
Why? For fishing & for trapping fowl.
Two brass snares.
Why? Small game snares for trapping .
Roll of brass snare wire.
Spare wire for making small game snares, can be used
for making leaders for angling, can be used for repair work.
Knapsack.
Main pack for carrying equipment & food
supplies, carries my blanket roll & oil cloth shelter & secures my
market wallet.
Scrip.
Why? This haversack is carried just for foraging
purposes. I often forage along the trail when trekking.
Market Wallet.
Why? This is secured under the flap closure of my
knapsack & is used to carry extra items. This wallet can also be carried
indendently.
Tin Cup.
Why? For drinking tea & eating food.
Kettle (Billy Can).
Why? For boiling water for sterilising & making
tea, for cooking.
Water filter bags (cotton & linen bags).
Why? For filtering dirty drinking water before
boiling, light & compact & easy to carry, unbreakable.
Medical pouch.
Why? Contains medical equipment & supplies,
lighter than a hard container, easy to pack & carry in my knapsack near the
top.
Housewife.
Why? This is my sewing kit for making repairs to
clothing, making moccasins, needles can be used to remove splinters & if
necessary to stitch wounds.
Piece of soap and a broken ivory comb.
Why? For bathing & looking after my hair.
Dried foods in bags.
Why? Dried foods are lighter to carry, easy to pack
& preserve well for long periods.
Wooden spoon.
Why? For cooking & eating, light to carry.
Compass.
Why? A compass makes it easier to tell direction on
very overcast days & nights, makes it easier to maintain a straight
direction & travel quicker.
Whet stone.
Why? For keeping my blades sharp, for working on gun
lock parts if needed.
Small metal file.
Why? Same as whet stone above.
Oilcloth.
Why? The oil cloth is for making a quick shelter,
easy to set up & versatile, enables me to use a fire for cooking &
warmth close to my bed, can be used as a rain coat, can be used for water
collection, can be used to make a boat, gives me more vision around me & an
easy exit if needed.
One pure wool blanket (Monmouth cap, spare wool
waistcoat and wool shirt rolled inside blanket).
Why? The blanket roll is easy to carry, does not
restrict my movement/escape at night like a sleeping bag will, can be used as a
matchcoat, can be used as a Great Coat, retains body warmth even when wet,
light to carry.
Spare pair of moccasins.
Why? To wear if my other pair get wet, to wear
whilst I make repairs on the other pair, to wear if the other moccasins need
replacing & whilst I make a new pair.
Two water canteens.
Why? For carrying drinking water.
Bottle of rum.
Why? Only a small bottle but I like a tot of rum
& it helps me relax a little.
Saturday, September 23, 2017
Sustainability & Long Term Survival.
Sustainability.
Sustainability/sustainable means lasting for a long time, or, the ability to make
something last for a long time.
If in our preparations for survival we are considering that we may
need to live long term in a wilderness situation, then we need to make sure our
equipment is sustainable. We also need to make sure that the lifestyle we have
chosen is sustainable. In other words, if our equipment is not sustainable,
then neither is our lifestyle.
If one has not had the experience, then at least most people can use
their imagination to help them see & understand. For instance; let’s say
our country is attacked & the enemy uses an EMP to knock out the
electricity grid. What will this mean for those living in towns & cities?
It will mean that there will be no electricity, no water, no sewage control so
no toilets. We all know what else will happen don’t we, looting, supermarkets
will be raided for all the food. Chemists looted, gun shops looted, Medical
facilities will be hampered. Some people will want what you have, so it will
not be safe for you to cook outside or in fact to go outside at all. Your house
could be raided, if you manage to repulse an attack, then the attackers may well
fire your house or drive a Mack truck through it. Does this make any sense to
you?
Now you may say that you must bug in because you simply would not
know how to survive in the bush. Well my reply to that is, learn. Get the
skills you will need & go bush & get some experience before the shtf.
Now for the equipment. IF you are prepping for long term survival,
there is no point relying on items that are NOT sustainable! Ferocerium rods,
matches, cigarette lighters, are not sustainable, don’t kid yourself that they
are just because you do not have primitive fire lighting skills. Flint, steel
& tinderbox is a sustainable method of making fire, & it is an easy
method to learn & use. Think about what you have in your bug out pack, do
you NEED the items you have, or are they just adding weight & taking up
room? Most important items are: Medical supplies, water, food & ammunition. Do NOT compromise the carrying if these items!
Firearms:
I have modern firearms & I have muzzle-loading firearms. IF I had
to leave on my own & could only carry one firearm, I choose to carry my
flintlock. Why? Because it is sustainable! If it breaks I can fix it. Now I
could carry one of my .22 rimfires, the ammunition is relatively light, but if it should malfunction, I simply
would not be able to fix it. Yes I could carry a spare firing pin & perhaps
the tools needed to strip the bolt & replace the firing pin, but then I
still only have a .22, which can not be relied on to drop anything but small
game. Yes I know you can shoot roos & goats etc, but how many times have
you shot a medium sized animal with a .22 & lost it? I need a gun that I
know I can count on, a gun that will efficiently kill small & medium sized
game & if possible large game too.
I realize that a flintlock muzzle-loading gun is not the best in a
fire fight against others who can load faster than I can, but it only takes one
shot to kill, & I plan on keeping a low profile & staying out of fire
fights if I can. Now if I am travelling in a group, which in fact I would be if
I had to leave my home in the forest, then as a group we would be carrying
modern firearms, muzzleloaders & traditional bows. I will add a list of the
advantages in carrying/using a flintlock muzzle-loader. I can see the advantages in carrying a modern firearm, but I can
also see the disadvantages, & for me, the disadvantages outweigh the
advantages. Reading through this list it is pretty easy to compare these
advantages with those of the modern firearm, so see what you think. Do bear in
mind the weight factor of modern ammunition, the larger the calibre, the
heavier it is. How much can you carry without compromising other important
equipment?
Advantages of a Flintlock
Muzzle-loader.
1)
Ammo is less
expensive than a modern equivalent calibre firearm.
2)
The smoothbore
is very versatile, being able to digest round ball, bird shot, & buckshot,
or any combination of two of these (can also use minies).
3)
The fusil is
lighter to carry than a modern equivalent sized gun.
4)
You can vary the
load if needs be.
5)
The smoothbore
will digest other projectiles besides lead.
6)
Lead can be
retrieved from downed game & remoulded with a simple mould & lead
ladle. This means that you can carry less lead, & more of the lighter
gunpowder.
7)
You can make
your own gunpowder.
8)
You can use the
lock to make fire without the need for gunpowder.
9)
You can use
gunpowder for gunpowder tinder fire lighting if needs be.
10)
IF the lock should malfunction (these are very
robust & it is not likely) you can easily repair it if you are carrying a
few spare springs & a few simple tools.
11)
If you do not
have any spare parts & the lock malfunctions, you can easily convert it to
a tinderlock or matchlock & continue using it.
12)
You do not need
a reloader, brass shells, caps, or primers. The latter have been known to break
down in damp conditions or if they are stored for too long.
13)
Wadding for ball or shot is available from
natural plant materials or homemade leather or rawhide.
14)
Less chance of
being affected by future ammunition control legislation.
15)
Gunpowder is
easily obtainable providing you have a muzzle-loader registered in your name
regardless of calibre (NSW)
16)
A .32 calibre flintlock rifle is more powerful
than a .22 rimfire, less expensive to feed, more accurate over a greater
distance, able to take small & medium sized game, & other than not
being able to use shot (unless it is smoothbore), it has all the attributes of
the other flintlocks. For larger game
you can load with conical slugs, which of course you can make yourself in the
field.
17)
Damage from a
.62 calibre or .70 calibre pistol or long arm is in the extreme. Wounded prey
is unlikely to escape.
18)
By using buck & ball you are unlikely to
miss your target. This load is capable of taking out more than one target.
19)
There is less kick-back to a muzzle-loading
gun.
20)
Antique Flintlock muzzle-loading guns do not
require a license, registration, or a permit to purchase in NSW Australia.
The Advantages of Carrying/Using 18th Century
Equipment.
·
A flintlock smoothbore gun is versatile,
you can make fire with the lock without using any gunpowder, you can use
various sizes of small shot & round ball, you can if necessary use other
projectiles besides lead, you can retrieve lead from shot game & remould it
for further use. If the lock should malfunction it is easily repaired with
spare springs, if you have no spare springs the lock is easily converted to
matchlock.
·
A flintlock rifle has the same
advantages as the smoothbore except that it can not use small shot without
leading the barrel. A .32 flintlock rifle has more power than a .22 rimfire
& is less expensive to shoot.
·
You can purchase an antique flintlock
pistol now with no need for licence or registration.
·
Ball moulds can be used as heavy
tweezers for removing foreign objects from the body.
·
Gunpowder (Black Powder) can be used to
make fire with unprepared plant tinders without wasting ammunition.
·
A trade axe/tomahawk is very versatile.
The head is easily removed to be used as a hide scraper, the tomahawk can be
thrown for recreation, self defence & hunting. This axe is a good defence
weapon for hand to hand fighting, for constructing shelters & traps &
for hammering in stakes or wooden pegs. A new helve/handle is easy to make
& fit & does not require a wedge to secure the head.
·
The awl is used for making leather items
& for repairing leather items. The awl is used to make & repair
moccasins.
·
The butcher knife is for skinning &
butchering game & can be used for self-defence.
·
The legging knife is a back-up to the
butcher knife. If you should dull the edge on your butcher knife you can
continue with the legging knife. You do not want to stay around sharpening
blades. Your shot may have attracted unwanted attention.
·
The clasp knife is used for camp chores
& for making trap triggers. You do not want to use your main blades as
utility knives.
·
Flint, steel & tinderbox will enable
you to make fire anywhere in all weather conditions. It will not break or wear
out & the process is renewable & sustainable.
·
18th century woodsrunner’s
clothing (men & women) is practicle, protective, hard wearing &
renewable.
·
The housewife (sewing kit) is for making
& repairing clothing & packs. The needles can be used for removing splinters
& if needs be sewing up wounds. The beeswax is used to wax the linen sewing
thread & can be used as makeshift tooth fillings.
·
The angling tackle can be used with a
rod or set lines, it can also be used for catching ducks & large land fowl.
The linen or silk lines can be replaced with hand made cordage made from plant
materials. Silk lines can be used as suture thread.
·
The cooking kettle is used for boiling
food, boiling water for drinks & sterilising, carrying water & for
catching rainwater.
·
Cotton & linen bags can be used for
cleaning dirty water before boiling for drinking or adding to your water
bottle.
·
Gun tools are used for repairing the
lock on your flintlock muzzle-loading gun if needs be, but these locks are very
hard wearing. The tools are merely a back-up. The turn screw is used to remove
the lock & barrel for cleaning.
·
The whet stone is used to sharpen your
blades, as is the metal file, though both could have other uses if working with
metal.
·
The half-axe is optional & is
capable of heavier work than the tomahawk without adding too much weight.
·
An auger is optional & is used for
making holes for constructing more permanent dwellings. These augers come in a
variety of sizes & weigh very little. Small versions will fit in your pack,
where longer versions can be tied to your blanket roll.
·
The sword is also optional but in a hand
to hand fight can be very useful. The sword is also used for cutting reeds for
shelter & mat construction.
·
The wool blanket is far more versatile
than a sleeping bag, & if wet the blanket retains more body heat than a
sleeping bag. The pure wool blanket can be used as a matchcoat or a Great Coat
& can be used in a sitting position under an oilcloth covering on the
trail.
·
The oilcloth shelter is very versatile
& can be used in many ways, including use as a rain coat. Used as a lean-to
shelter you can use fire for warmth at night & you have good visibility on
at least three sides. The lean-to is easy & quick to construct &
quickly taken down. It does not need tent poles/rods & it is easy to carry.
Anyone using this equipment is advised
to learn the many primitive skills that go with this type of wilderness living.
If you are living this 18th century lifestyle then your level of
comfort will never drop below this level. This equipment does not wear out;
anything that could break can be repaired or replaced from natural sources. You
are also advised to carry a modern medical kit which should include an eye wash
glass.
My Equipment List.
.62 cal/20 gauge flintlock fusil. 42 inch barrel.
.70 caliber smoothbore flintlock pistol.
Gun tools and spare lock parts.
Shot pouch and contents.
Leather drawstring pouch of .60 caliber ball (in
knapsack).
Powder horn.
Ball mould and swan shot mould.
5 Gunpowder wallets
Lead ladle.
Butcher/Hunting knife.
Legging knife.
Clasp knife.
Tomahawk.
Fire bag.
Tinderbox.
Belt pouch.
Fishing tackle in brass container.
Two brass snares.
Roll of brass snare wire.
Knapsack.
Scrip.
Market Wallet.
Tin Cup.
Kettle.
Water filter bags (cotton & linen bags).
Medical pouch.
Housewife.
Piece of soap and a broken ivory comb.
Dried foods in bags.
Wooden spoon.
Compass.
Whet stone.
Small metal file.
Oilcloth.
One blanket (Monmouth cap, spare wool waistcoat and
wool shirt rolled inside blanket).
Two glass saddle flasks.
Length of hemp rope.
Bottle of rum.
Basic list of what I carry. This list is made up
from items that we know were carried, from items that my research has shown
were available, & from items that have been found, such as the brass snare
wire. I am not saying every woodsrunner carried all these items, but I am
saying that some woodsrunners may have carried all these items. From
experimental archaeology results in historical trekking, I think the items I
have chosen are a reasonable choice for any woodsrunner that is going to live
in the wilderness for a year or more.
Keith.
Saturday, September 9, 2017
Bugging Out. Something to think about.
Bugging Out. Something to think about.
For the purpose of explaining things in this article, let us assume
that this shtf situation is going to last for at least 5 years. Let us also say
that bugging out in this article means not living in the city. You could be
living at a country retreat in a house, in a house somewhere out of town,
possibly even in a small town or you could be camped out in a
wilderness/country area.
1) There are many ways/choices/methods in which you could opt to
survive. One would be to go into the country/wilderness with nothing at all, in
which case you would have to make your own tools from stone, wood or bone, make
fire by a friction method, & construct a primitive shelter from wood, stone
or earth. Now this would mean a lot of hard work, & this work would be for the
most part continuous. Comforts would be at a minimum. Your defenses would be
very primitive, & your best defense would be to stay unseen; hidden from
view.
2) You could go bush carrying a lot of modern gear, some modern gear
is good, but all modern gear has its limitations & is rarely sustainable.
Two modern items that are worth considering are 1) medical supplies, which I
consider vital, & 2) a modern firearm. The modern firearm is not really
sustainable, although a .22 rimfire rifle or an air rifle would allow you to
carry quite a lot of ammunition without adding too much weight. The larger the
modern caliber, the more weight you carry & therefore the less ammo you can
afford to carry. Reloading equipment, primers & lead would add even more
weight. Modern gadgets for the most part are not sustainable or vital to your
survival. Torches, solar chargers, multi tools, compound bows, radios, walkie
talkies, satellite navigation, fuel stoves, heated gloves, night vision goggles,
cigarette lighters, matches, ferocerium rod, etc, etc, are not vital additions
to your equipment & they are not sustainable or they will add weight &
take up room in your pack that could be better served by carrying more
important vital items such as water, food, medical supplies & ammunition.
If you were to opt for carrying all modern gear that was not sustainable,
then sooner or later you could end up living a stone age lifestyle such as in
the first option of going bush with nothing.
3) You could equip yourself with sustainable equipment that will not
run down, break or wear out. This type of equipment is dated, by that I mean it
is hundreds of years old in its function & technology. Your comfort will
not be the same as lying on an inflatable bed in a tent cocooned in a sleeping
bag, but there would be a certain amount of comfort that can be
maintained/sustained! Flint & steel fire lighting will mean that you are
never without fire. Your tools are unlikely to break if you look after them. The
moccasins on your feet can be repaired by yourself & even replaced when
needs be. A long bow or a muzzle-loading flintlock will supply your meat as
well as the traps you have made to set up your trap line. In short you will have a more comfortable
lifestyle than the stone age option.
Put some serious thought into the gear that you choose, if you do not
have the experience, then use your imagination! Some people say that you cannot
learn anything worthwhile from watching movies, I disagree. Some old movies did
in fact foresee the future, & many modern dramas are based on real life,
based on the fact that there are bad people out there & it only needs you
to be in the wrong place at the wrong time to get yourself in a heap of
trouble!
Primitive skills are important, good equipment is vital but A) you
need to know how to use that equipment to the best of its advantage, & B)
with the skills comes knowledge & understanding.
People on forums have often commented that with all their modern
equipment, including powerful telescopic rifle sights mounted on a powerful
super accurate rifle that people like me will not live long post shtf. But what
these people fail to comprehend is that they do not have the skills that I
have, & they, unlike me are not a part of my environment. I can smell
things they don’t smell, I hear things they don’t hear, & I sense things
that they cannot.
You will not become a part of a wilderness environment overnight, it
takes time, patience, experience, & a willingness to learn. Don’t rely on
modern gadgets, rely on good proven tools & above all rely on yourself,
your abilities & your skills.
Keith.
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