Showing posts with label bugging-out. Show all posts
Showing posts with label bugging-out. Show all posts

Monday, January 23, 2017

Survival, Camping or Bushcraft?


Survival, Camping or Bushcraft?
If survival is what you are interested in & preparing for, then that is what you need to concentrate on. Camping is not survival, unless it is primitive camping, in which case there are skills to be learnt there. Bushcraft in the main is not about survival, it is about inventing new so called “skills” that you can practice & share but have no real practicle survival value. Modern camping & bushcraft is about gadgetry, new gadgets & tents are being produced all the time to lure the gadget oriented person into spending more money on stuff that has no real practicle value. Camping used to be about practicle skills & basic equipment, now it is an industry.

Lost survival is different from shtf survival. Lost survival involves people who fail to notify anyone where they are going & how long they will be, or they change their plans without telling anyone. SHTF survival is about surviving a major catastrophe, surviving an event that endangers your life & your living standards. If you are in the city you will have to leave & find somewhere safer in the country. If you are living in the country already you will need to step up your security measures. In both cases you will need to know primitive skills, & you will need basic tools to help you survive long term. Modern gadgets & modern tents won’t cut it. They will not last or stand up to the rigors of primitive living conditions & once they are gone you are left with nothing.
The author's .62 caliber flintlock smoothbore fusil.

You need to choose a period pre 19th century & equip yourself with the tools & equipment of that period. Why? Because these tools will last, these tools were designed with a specific purpose in mind, survival, & once you are equipped in this fashion you will never drop below that level of comfort. Some 20th century tools will be very useful if you are already living in the country or are intending to move to a retreat. We are talking “hand tools” here, basic hand tools that do not rely on electricity or fuel to operate. You may well be living off grid using solar power electricity, but there is no guarantee that this will last. One of our batteries now has a dead cell, the system is still holding up, but for how long we can not tell.
So, think long & hard & seriously about how you equip yourself. Think about what will be required of the tools that you choose. A short bladed bushcraft knife will not kill as quickly as a longer bladed hunting knife if used for stabbing. Modern methods of fire lighting may not be the best, get a real flint, steel & tinderbox. This will last a lifetime & using it will teach you more fire lighting skills than using a ferrocerium rod. 
12 gauge Black Powder breechloader shotgun with brass cartridges.

When it comes to guns modern firearms are best for defence at your home in the bush, but if you have to “bug-out” with no dwelling to go to, then I recommend you carry a flintlock muzzleloading gun & a bow. Modern ammunition is heavy & bulky & if a modern firearm malfunctions, you are left with a fancy club or a goat stake! People are for ever rubbishing the flintlock muzzleloading gun, in favour of a more modern firearm. Yes having a 9mm Glock on your belt would be very reassuring, IF you can obtain one! My argument is that I can have a flintlock pistol right now, & I would sooner have a flintlock pistol than no handgun at all. Besides which there are many advantages to using a flintlock that are not available to you if you are using a modern breechloader.
.32 caliber flintlock rifle. Accurate, more power than a .22 rimfire & practicle for long term wilderness living.

So make up your mind now if you are really serious about shtf survival. If you genuinely think that something major could go down in the future that could threaten you (& your family);your life & your way of living, then stop wasting your time & money on modern gadgets & tents. Learn primitive skills & equip yourselves with primitive gear that will last long term. You will find that it is less expensive in the long run anyway.
Belt axe/tomahawk. Far more practicle than a machete.
Hunting knife for skinning, butchering & self-defence.
.70 caliber smoothbore flintlock pistol for defence.

Exceptions? Possibly water filters, these could be useful if you have to leave the city & go bush. Maybe not of long term use, but they may help in your escape. Medical. You can’t beat good modern medical supplies. By all means use herbal remedies, but do not rely solely on herbs for your survival.

Medical supplies are very important.

The author's hunting sword. A good basic self-defence tool to carry after the fall.



Wednesday, May 25, 2016

Retreat Security: I Am Your Worst Nightmare by Jeff T.


SURVIVAL PLANS.
This survival scenario is wide spread over the net on various survival sites & blogs. Where it originated I can not say, but Mr Jeff T. has obviously put a lot of thought into this article. I would like to thank the author Mr Jeff T. for allowing this article to be used in the public domain.
Keith.
Retreat Security: I Am Your Worst Nightmare
by Jeff T.
I am the leader of a band of 8-to-12 looters. I have some basic military training. We move from place to place like locusts devouring everything in our path. My group is armed with light weapons and can develop and follow simple plans of attack. We take what we want by force of arms. We prefer none of our victims survive because that could cause problems for us in the future.
It has been six months since the grid went down. You and the other five members of your party have settled into what may be a long grinding existence. The every day tasks of growing and gathering have now become routine. The news from the outside is extremely limited but you don’t really miss it much. Life is simple but physically demanding.
Although things may seem stable you will need to keep your team focused and alert. This is your first and most important layer of defence. You should hold an immediate reaction drill once per week. Keep things simple. Practice a specific response to such threats as injury, fire, attack and evacuation. Despite the challenges you must maintain contact with those around you such as neighbours for vital clues that trouble is brewing. Regular monitoring the radio will be critical in providing an early warning of trouble. You may be able to safely interview refugees without risking your party. Keep in mind the information you get from them may not always be reliable.
While you have been farming I have been learning the best tactics to employ to seize your property and your goods. I have been refining them since we hit the road right after the lights went out. I have conducted eight “hits” so far and have been successful seven times. Here are some of my “lessons learned”.
Intelligence gathering and target selection is critical to my success. Targets include those who have large quantities of fuel, food and other valuable supplies. My posse is constantly questioning anyone and everyone we contact searching for our next victim. Anyone who has ever had knowledge, even second hand, of your preparations is someone of interest to me. I may approach them directly or indirectly. If anyone knows something I will find out about it. Who seems well-fed? Who still has transportation? Who has lights? Who was prepared? Where are they exactly? Somebody talks, either in person or on the radio. They always do.
We search for victims night and day. During the day we are listening for the sounds of machinery, cars, tractors, gunfire or generators. Day or night without a lot of wind those sounds can carry for miles. At night I look for any sort of light. Even a small flash indicates somebody with electricity and that means a rich target. I always have somebody listening to the scanner for any news, leads or insecure chatter.
Operational Security is an important concept for your entire group to understand and maintain. If somebody outside your circle doesn’t have a real need to know about your plans, preparations or procedures then they shouldn’t know period. Develop a cover story and live it like was a bulletproof vest. It is no less important to your protection and survival. During an event you need to blend in with the surrounding environment. Carefully observe noise (such as generators and other engines) and light discipline especially at night. If you need to test fire weapons do it in one sequence to avoid a prolonged noise signature.
Once I find and target you reconnaissance of your retreat is my next step. Only a fool would try to rush in and try to overwhelm a group of “survivalists”. We had a bad experience with that during our second hit. Now we spend at least a day or two trying to size up a large opportunity and the best way to take it down. I will observe retreat activity from a nearby-concealed position. I will get an idea of your numbers, weapons, routines and so much more by careful surreptitious observation. If your group seems alert, I will try and trigger a false alarm with a dog or child to watch your reaction to a threat. That helps me know how you respond, where you are strong and how to attack. I may also obtain a topographical map of the area to identify likely avenues of approach and potential escape routes you will try to use. I may coerce your neighbours into uncovering a weak spot or access point or other important intelligence. I also have a Bearcat handheld scanner. I will be listening for any insecure chatter from your radios.
Regular patrols at irregular intervals focused on likely observation points and avenues of approach could keep me at bay. You could put down sand or other soft soil in key choke points as a way of “recording” if anyone has recently travelled through the land. Dogs, with their advanced sense of hearing and smell are able to detect and alert you to intruders well in advance of any human. Motion sensing IR video cameras as a part of a security plan could play a part in your layered defence as long as you have power. A 24 hour manned observation point equipped with high quality optical tools is a must. It should be fortified and if possible concealed. It should have a weapon capable of reaching to the edges of your vision. Seismic intrusion devices, night vision and thermal imaging are phenomenal force multiplying tools. They can give you critical intelligence and warning. You should use them if you have them. Understand they are not fool proof and I can often neutralize them if I know you have them.
These tools and techniques provide you reaction time. Time to plan your response and time to execute that plan. Recognize that a “defender” is always at a disadvantage. By definition a defender will be reacting to my attack. Modern warfare has emphasized the ability of the attacker to operate faster than opponents can react. This can be explained by the OODA loop. Below are the four steps of the classic OODA loop. These are the steps a defender goes through when under attack.
1. Observing or noticing the attack.
2. Orient to the direction, method and type of attack.
3. Deciding what the appropriate response will be.
4. Acting on that decision.
As an attacker I will try and operate at a pace faster than you as a defender can adjust to. I will change my direction, pace, timing and method to force you to continue to process through the OODA loop. This creates confusion and wastes your precious reaction time. As a defender you will need to disrupt or reset your attackers timing with a counter-attack. When you are successful you become the attacker. Your defensive plans should utilize and exploit this concept. Here are a few scenarios:
1. Snipe & Siege
I will begin the attack when I can engage at least half of your party’s military age personnel in one coordinated effort. I will infiltrate my team into concealed positions around your retreat within 50 to 75 yards. I will target any identified leadership with the first volley. Two thirds of my people will be engaging personnel. The other group will target communications antennas, surveillance cameras and any visible lighting assets. I want your group unable to see, communicate or call for help. The members of my band will each fire two magazines in the initial exchange. Two thirds of my group will change to new concealed positions and wait. One third will fall back into an ambush of the most likely avenue of escape. We will stay concealed and wait until you come out to attend to your wounded and dead. We repeat the attack as necessary until any resistance is crushed.
Ensure you adjust the landscape around your retreat so that I don’t have anyplace offering cover or concealment within 100 yards of your residence. You can create decorative masonry walls that can be used to offer cover for personnel close to your residence. Fighting positions can be built now and used as raised planting beds and then excavated for use in the future. These can be extended or reinforced after any significant event. These structures or other measures such as trenching must be sited carefully to avoid allowing them to be used effectively by an attacker if they are overrun.
2. Trojan Horse
For one hit we used an old UPS truck. We forced a refugee to drive it to the retreat gate. We concealed half our group inside the truck. The truck was hardened on the inside with some sandbags around the edges. The other half of our group formed an ambush concealed inside the tree line along the driveway. We killed the driver to make it look good and had one person run away. Those preppers almost waited us out. After nearly three hours they all walked slowly down the driveway. They were bunched up in a group intent on checking out the truck and driver. It was like shooting fish in a barrel.
They could have worked together as group to sweep the area 360 degrees around the truck and they would have surely found us. A dog would have also alerted the residents to our presence. They could have taken measures to eliminate the vegetation offering us concealment on the road near the gate. They could have used CS gas or something similar to “deny” any suspicious areas. Lastly they could have done a “reconnaissance by fire”. Shooting into likely hiding spots, including the truck, trying to evoke a response. They should have established an over watch position with the majority of their group. This over watch group would have provided visual security and an immediate response if there were an attack. They were not expecting any additional threats. They didn’t consider that there might be additional danger lurking nearby aside from the truck and they died.
3. Kidnap & Surrender
A few weeks ago we surprised and captured a couple of women out tending a garden. It was totally by chance. We were travelling through a very rural area on our way to another town when somebody heard a tractor backfire. We immediately stopped and I sent a small team to recon the noise. They bumped into a small party tending a field at the edge of their retreat. They seized two women and immediately dragged them back to our vehicles. We began negotiations by sending a finger from each one back to the retreat under a white flag. The rest was easy.
This didn’t need to happen. Better noise discipline would have kept us from discovering their retreat. Some simple boundary fencing or tangle foot could have delayed us. The women should have been armed and aware of such a threat. If they had established an over watch for the garden they could have engaged us before we took our hostages or at least alerted the others that there was a problem. They also could have had a quick reaction SOP developed prior to this incident. That Quick Reaction (QR) force could have followed the kidnappers back to our vehicles and set up an ambush of their own. Rural retreat security is a full time job. If you snooze you may lose everything.
4. Fire and Manoeuvre.
I don’t like this option but sometimes the prize is just too tempting. We typically infiltrate quietly at night to prearranged start points. We begin our attack just before dawn when your senses are dulled by a long night watch or from sleep. Based on our reconnaissance we divided your retreat into positions or zones that need specific attention. We prepare for battle by using an air rifle to target any lights or cameras. Our first priority is to engage any LP/OP site and destroy or degrade them as much as possible. I split my forces into two supporting groups. One group keeps the target position under constant fire. The other group also fires and manoeuvres’, closing on the target and destroying it with gunfire or improvised weapons. Many times these positions only have one occupant and the task is relatively easy. Often these positions are easy to spot and are too far from each other to provide any effective mutual support. We will work from one position to the next. In the darkness and confusion most of the defenders are disoriented and ineffective. They fall like dominos. We have also used motorcycles to negotiate obstacles and speed through cuts in the perimeter fence. Then throw Molotov Cocktails into any defensive position as they roar past. If you fall back into your residence we will set up a siege. If we can manoeuvre close enough, perhaps by using a distraction, we will pump concentrated insecticide into your building or we may introduce LP gas from a portable tank into the house and ignite it with tracer fire.
If there was enough warning time from your OP you could execute a pre-planned response. Your planned response should be simple, easy to understand and execute. Half your group occupies your fighting positions, two to a position. The rest of your party establishes an over watch and concentrate its fire at the enemies trying to fix your positions. If you had more than enough prepared positions the enemy might not know where to attack. It would also provide more flexibility in your defence based on the direction of attack. I would use Night Vision if available or illumination from flares or lights as a last resort. Rats hate light.
Usually people keep main access points blocked from high-speed approach. Likely avenues of approach should also be blocked or choked and kept under observation. Remember though what keeps me out keeps you in. Typically the common techniques of parking vehicles in roadways will only delay my approach not stop it altogether. An ordinary 12-gauge shotgun, shooting slugs, can stop most types of non-military vehicles at close range.
Don’t forget the threat of fire or other non-traditional weapons in your defensive plans.
You could create the illusion of a “dead end” for your main access road by positioning a burned out trailer home or a couple of burned out cars at the false “end” of the road. Concealing the fact that the road actually continues to your residence.
Lastly, develop a plan to evacuate and evade capture. When faced with a significantly superior force it may be the only viable option. This should include simple, reliable communications or signals such as three blasts on a dog whistle. Your fighting positions and barriers need to be constructed to allow coordinated withdrawal in an emergency. You should establish a rally point and time limit to assemble. I believe this should be a priority in your practice drills. During a real emergency you may be able to rally, rearm and plan your own version of the “snipe and siege” to retake your retreat.
Key messages:
Your rural retreat defence can be visualized as a set of concentric rings:
Location – Location – Location: High and remote are best
OPSEC – Think of it as a form of armour or shield: Practice it and protect it.
Observation Post / Listening Post: Your first best chance to counter attack
Gates / Fences / other barriers: May slow me down. Might keep you in.
Fighting positions: Must provide mutual support and allow for evacuation.
Residence: Last line. Don’t become trapped
People, Planning and Practice
Remember:
An aggressive and unexpected counter strike can win the battle.
Stay alert for multiple threats or diversionary tactics.
Criminals excel at feigning weakness to lower your guard.
Don’t underestimate me.



Sunday, August 25, 2013

The Survival Connection.

18th Century New World Colonial Settlement.
The Survival Connection. © Keith H. Burgess.
In an urban survival scenario where police and military protection is none existent, most people will agree that unless you are well fortified, well armed and have an abundance of supplies, you are better off getting out of built up areas. Personally I would not stay in the city at all, it is just too easy for someone to set fire to your house and burn you out. Your choices once you leave city or town are either moving to a country retreat or farm, or moving into a wilderness area where you can hide and survive.
Settlers from England and Europe moving to the New World were faced with a harsh wilderness in which they needed to build their homes and plant crops. They needed to hunt and trap wild game for food and skins, and there was the ever present danger from the woodland natives whose land they were trespassing on. The settler’s homes had to be fortified against attack; small windows with shutters, strong doors, guns kept close to hand and plenty of gunpowder and lead. Everyone in the house strong enough to handle a gun knew how to shoot. Small children would melt lead in the open fire for moulding round ball and shot, they would also know how to load the guns for those who were shooting at the enemy.
Supplying their own food was essential, as there were no shops or stores close-by. Crops from the field and the garden were preserved for use in the winter months. Meat could be smoked or dried, and the skins were used for clothing, making moccasins, for bed covers and for trading. These people had to be totally self-reliant and self-sufficient just as the woodland Indians were.
Now a lot of discussions revolve around the need for modern equipment, tools and gadgets, but do these modern aids in fact help us survive in a situation similar to the above scenario? In such a situation having the knowledge and skills to construct shelters, grow foods, hunt and trap, make cordage, make clothing etc would be as important as having the right tools in order to complete these tasks. With the right fortification a large number of attackers can be held at bay by a lesser number of people with less firepower. Providing they have good supplies to hand they can stay holed up indefinitely. Where as the attackers will need shelter, food, water and munitions in order to carry such an assault. Where as the settlers can afford to take their time and make their occasional shots count, the attackers will be obliged to try and expedite the attack by taking risks. At night the attackers risk being attacked themselves.
The enemy simply can’t afford a long drawn out assault which will deplete their munitions and supplies. These marauding gangs need to end such an assault as quickly as possible so they can pillage new supplies and munitions and move on. Their road does not lead to permanence and self-sufficiency; it is a path of constant mobility and assault on easy targets. It is doubtful indeed that these people will in fact ever venture far from built up areas. Their skills or the lack of, and their equipment choices will simply not support a venture that takes them too far into the bush.
It is my opinion that those people who are equipped with primitive skills and the right tools will carry the day when it comes to retreat and wilderness survival. In a retreat situation it would undoubtedly be wise to have some modern firearms amongst your number. Even if you have to leave your farm it would be advisable to take some modern firepower with your number. But I think it would be unwise to depend on any modern equipment for your survival in the long term unless you have the ability to service, repair and if necessary replace that equipment should the need arise.
Problems that can arise from carrying only modern firearms include: Unable to service and keep in good working order. Unable to make repairs. Unable to make new projectiles and reload cartridges. Unable to limit the fire to single shots when used to firing multiple shots from a semi-automatic weapon [this is the fault of the shooter rather than the firearm per se].Unable to carry large amounts of large calibre munitions due to the excessive weight. If reloading equipment is carried the primers can fall foul from damp and wet, and the reloading equipment adds to the weight an individual has to carry.
Advantages of carrying a flintlock muzzle-loading gun and having the attending skills needed to use this tool include: The ability to retrieve spent lead and remould it into shot or round ball. The ability to use the lock for making fire without the use of gunpowder. The ability to service and repair, and if necessary convert the firing method to a different system. The ability to shoot a variety of projectiles, some in combination. The ability to carry more gunpowder in weight and less lead therefore extending the time that this gun may be in use.
This article first published on the New England Colonial living History Group forum in “The Survival Connection”.

Off The Grid 1.

I don’t see why we cannot include pre & post shtf off the grid information here. Some preparations can only go so far. It would not be practical to enclose our retreats within a fortress at this early stage.



Elm Cottage:
We live in a forest that I purchased many years ago. It was necessary that an area be cleared for the construction of our house, & that a roadway be cleared to get into the forest. Fortunately & found a rock plateau on the side of the first valley on the west side saving me a lot of work clearing trees. I found an old late 19th century to early 20th century house sitting disused in a paddock not too far away. After considerable haddling I managed to talk the farmer down from $3000.00 to $300.00 for this house. I numbered all the pieces of this house & then pulled it apart & transported it piece by piece on a small trailer to our chosen house site & then rebuilt it. The early era windows were far too small, both for light & for housing regulations, so I fitted the windows I had taken out of the log cabin I have previously built up in the mountains above Guyra.
There are just 4 rooms in Elm Cottage, two bedrooms, kitchen & living room. We used a tin bath for bathing in front of the living room fire in winter, & I built an ash can log cabin style outhouse. The fire place I built in the fashion of a larger early 18th century fire place with a buggy axle in the large chimney from which I hung two chains with kettle hooks. On these we hung our large old kettles for boiling water for bathing & drinks. Cooking was also done on a small wood burning stove in a large chimney in the kitchen. Lighting was by fat lamps & candles. We grew our own food & I hunted for meat using my flintlock fusil which is less expensive to use than a modern firearm. I found an old small chest freezer discarded, & claimed this for use as an ice box in summer when we had anything that needed to be kept cool.

I found three damaged iron water tanks down at the tip. One of these I turned into an outside shower with a canvas shower bag on a pulley, & a wood heater for use in winter. The other two water tanks I placed on their sides & used for storing firewood. We lived in this manner for 20 years. Shortly before having a new much larger house built, we installed a 12 volt solar power system for running a car radio/cassette player & lighting.

Leaving Home. Survival Needs.

This article was originally written for a survival forum.

What survival scenario are we prepping for? Anything & everything. Basically any situation that threatens our quality of life. Any major survival situation that arrises will mean, if we are sensible, leaving the city. Life in the city would become one long firefight & no place for honest citizens & their families.
So let us think seriously about those needs. Are we going to be military soldiers in a war? No we are not. We will have no back-up ammunition supplies, food supplies or anything else. Our main purpose is to survive, not get into a prolonged firefight.
So with this in mind, let's think seriously about what our needs are. Firstly we will be on the move looking for a suitable place to set up home. We can not afford to carry too much weight, but at the same time we need to make sure that we have all the things we 
need to survive long term in a wilderness situation. In any trekking scenario there needs to be a compromise between minimum weight, & maximum self-reliance. So what are our major needs:
Water) We need to carry water with us, but it is heavy, so we must limit the amount we carry. We need to know where water can be found.
Food) We need to carry food. Dry foods are the lightest, but they also often require water to make them edible. Some dry foods however do not require water, dried meat for instance. We need to carry some foods that do not require cooking, because we may not wish to make fire. We also need to be able to set up a trap line, forage & hunt.
Fire) We need to choose a sustainable fire lighting system. Flint, steel & tinderbox fills this function. We also need to know of one other that can be made from nature, such as the Fire-Bow method.
Shelter) No frills needed here, we need something that is versatile, easy to use, & light. An oilcloth serves this purpose better than a tent.
Tools) A kettle for cooking & a cup. A gun or bow for hunting & defense. Blades for hunting, eating, cooking, chores & defense. Rope for trail snares, & the skill to be able to make your own traps. Blades for digging. A small mattock head without the handle should suffice.
Bedding) This needs to be reasonably light, versatile, & warm when wet. I carry one wool blanket, plus spare clothing that I put on at night over my ordinary clothing. This is lighter than carrying two blankets. If my partner is with me, then we have each other plus two blankets to keep us warm on cold nights.
Medical) Some form of medical kit, the best you can get. This should also include a supply of vitamins to take up the slack in a poor diet.
Seeds) When you get to where you are going, you will need to set up some gardens, so carry a good supply of seeds & root stock. Jerusalem Artichokes are a must in this situation.

As you can see, our needs are pretty basic. Do 
not get drawn in to purchasing gadgets & electrical items. We are not in the army, our sole purpose is the travel, keep a low profile, set up a new home, & survive.

Before you start purchasing firearms, think about this: Can you repair this gun if it malfunction? Ammunition for a modern gun can be heavy, how much can you afford to carry & how long do you expect it to last?
Remember, there has to be some compromise. We may be talking years here, not months. Maybe a life time. What are you prepared to leave behind in order to carry this much ammunition? Anything?
But there are alternatives. The primitive bow is one, but this can also be made in the bush if the right timber is available. The other option is a flintlock muzzle-loading gun. This arm has many advantages over the modern breech-loader. If you are a part of a group, you can perhaps afford to carry some modern firearms purely for self-defense, & thereby limit the weight of the ammunition. The flintlock will be your mainstay & carry you through long term.

My Blades.
My Flintlock Fusil.
Woodsrunner’s Skills.
This is a list of basic skills in which I personally would expect an 18th century woodsman or woods-woman to have some experience with.
•   Flint & steel fire lighting
•   Wet weather fire lighting
•   Fire-bow fire lighting
•   Flintlock fire lighting
•   Flintlock use, service & repair
•   Field dressing & butchering game
•   Blade sharpening
•   Tomahawk throwing
•   Making rawhide
•   Brain tanning
•   Primitive shelter construction
•   How to stay warm in winter with only one blanket
•   Cordage manufacture
•   Moccasin construction and repair
•   Sewing
•   Axe and tomahawk helve making
•   Fishing
•   Hunting
•   Evasion
•   Tracking
•   Reading sign
•   Woods lore
•   Navigation
•   Primitive trap construction & trapping
•   Open fire cooking
•   Fireplace construction
•   Clothing manufacture
•   Drying meat & other foods
•   Knowledge of plant tinders & preparation
•   Knowledge of native foods & preparation
•   Knowledge of native plants in the area and their uses for other than tinder and food.
•   Scouting/Ranging.
•   Basic first aid.
•   Finding and treating water.
•   General leather work.

I also have a full list of equipment that our group members carry if you are interested.
Regards, Keith.

Comments & questions are welcome, but please keep them polite & constructive.

Firearms For Long Term Wilderness Survival. The Flintlock.

The author's Flintlock Fusil.

The author's .32 caliber Flintlock Mountain rifle.

Advantages Of A Flintlock Muzzle-loader.
1)    Ammo is less expensive than a modern equivalent calibre firearm.
2)    The smoothbore is very versatile, being able to digest round ball, bird shot, & buckshot, or any combination of two of these (can also use minies).
3)    The fusil is lighter to carry than a modern equivalent sized gun.
4)    You can vary the load if needs be.
5)    The smoothbore will digest other projectiles besides lead.
6)    Lead can be retrieved from downed game & remoulded with a simple mould & lead ladle. This means that you can carry less lead, & more of the lighter gunpowder.
7)    You can make your own gunpowder.
8)    You can use the lock to make fire without the need for gunpowder.
9)    You can use gunpowder for gunpowder tinder fire lighting if needs be.
10)  IF the lock should malfunction (these are very robust & it is not likely)you can easily repair it if you are carrying a few spare springs & a few simple tools.
11) If you do not have any spare parts & the lock malfunctions, you can easily convert it to a tinderlock or matchlock & continue using it.
12) You do not need a reloader, brass shells, caps, or primers. The latter have been known to break down in damp conditions or if they are stored for too long.
13)  Wadding for ball or shot is available from natural plant materials or homemade leather or rawhide.
14) Less chance of being affected by future ammunition control legislation.
15) Gunpowder is easily obtainable providing you have a muzzle-loader registered in your name regardless of caliber (only NSW is looking at this legislation at present).
16) A .32 caliber flintlock rifle is more powerful than a .32 LR, less expensive to feed, more accurate over a greater distance, able to take small & medium sized game, & other than not being able to use shot (unless it is smoothbore), it has all the attributes of the other flintlocks.
17) Damage from a .62 caliber .75 caliber pistol or long arm is in the extreme. Wounded prey is unlikely to escape.
18)  By using buck & ball you are unlikely to miss your target. This load is capable of taking out more than one target.
19) There is less kick-back from a muzzle-loading gun.
20) Antiques do not require a license, registration or permit to purchase in NSW.
Smoothbore Flintlock Pistol.